1/250, f/1.4, ISO 400, 0 EV, -2/3 FEC, 35mm (35)
1/200, f/1.2, ISO 400, 0 EV, 85mm (85)
1/160, f/2.5, ISO 1600, +2/3 EV, 85mm (85)
1/160, f/1.4, ISO 400, 0 EV, +1/3 FEC, 35mm (35)
1/400, f/2.8, ISO 50, +1 EV, 200mm (70-200)
The sun was intense and low in the sky giving a huge tonal range. I obviously wanted to see the expressions on their faces so I exposure compensated by one stop - some detail in the dress had to be sacrificed.
1/500, f/2.8, ISO 50, +2/3 EV, 200mm (70-200)
1/640, f/2.8, ISO 50, +2/3 EV, 160mm (70-200)
Contrast had to be significantly boosted in post-production with this shot. I saw minimal flare in this sequence of shots despite the low sun - one of the benefits of L-series lenses.
1/800, f/1.2, ISO 250, 0 EV, 85mm (85)
The sun was so intense I decided to shoot the majority of the group shots inside. We found a room with beautifully soft light.
1/250, f/2.0, ISO 250, 0 EV, 85mm (85)
1/250, f/2.0, ISO 320, +1/3 EV, 85mm (85)
1/400, f/1.4, ISO 320, +1/3 EV, 35mm (35)
1/100, f/8.0, ISO 50, 0 EV, 35mm (35)
Back outside for the full group shot. I used the steps up to the hotel entrance in order to be able to see everybody which meant that the scene was sidelit. Again, the tonal range between lit and shadow sides was enormous. Shooting in RAW and then recovering highlights and boosting shadows with Lightroom has reduced this contrast.
1/200, f/4.0, ISO 50, +1 EV, 35mm (35)
Shooting with the sun behind the group and exposure compensating has kept faces free of shadows and burnt-out highlights.
1/250, f/2.8, ISO 1250, +2/3 EV, -1/3 FEC, 35mm (35)
A 'kiss of flash', softened by a Lastolite micro Apollo, gives the subject a nice boost.
1/320, f/4.0, ISO 1600, +1/3 EV, 0 FEC, 16mm (16-35)
Any comments or queries welcome as ever.
Check out my main website here: Kent photographer
Posts
2 comments:
David,
What's the best way to expose faces in bright sunshine - shooting towards the sun. It's really hard to judge on the LCD screen (shooting wide angle full length portrait for example). Would you suggest spot meter is the way to go? How do you manage blinking highlights and histogram information in this scenario?
Thank you
Hi Tim,
I have to say I never spot meter at weddings - too time consuming and easy to get wrong in a high pressure situation. I prefer exposure compensation and do it on 'instinct'.
I quickly judge if the scene is lighter or darker than middle grey, or is backlit as in the scenario you mention, and then compensate accordingly. This happens in an instance - I'm unconciously competent at this now. But occasionally I might underexpose if I want to guard highlight details or overexpose if I want more detail in the shadow regions.
I don't have a formula that I follow - it's on a shot-by-shot basis.
I may have a quick glance at the LCD screen after an occasional shot (the 5D Mk II produces high resolution thumbnails which are pretty accurate) but I rarely check the histogram. Again, due to time considerations.
This is probably not much use to you but it is honest!
All the best,
David
Post a Comment